A Royal Affair in Bharatpur

I wondered what I had booked myself into when my car stopped on a dusty road with two oxen staring at me from a few metres away and a sounder of swine gnawing away at the swampy ground. Then I looked to the other side and found a smiling Mr. Shailender in front of an arched doorway, waiting to welcome me into Chandra Mahal Haveli. First Impressions Outer appearances can be quite deceptive at times. I expected the haveli to have a grand entrance, but this is perhaps Chandra Mahal's biggest secret. It presents a bucolic exterior to underline its simplicity inside the Peharsar village. About two and a half hours away from Jaipur, this heritage hotel is perhaps the most opulent place to stay in Bharatpur. The haveli was built in 1840, and it is here that Prince Bharat Singh spent his years. The royal family's pictures adorn many hallways in the property. I distinctly recall a photo of Prince Bharat Singh with Dr. Rajendra Prasad - the first president of India. The building, though Rajasthani in its appeal, has Persian architecture. There are courtyards with a fountain at the centre and arched alleyways on all sides with pillars from the nineteenth century. Even their gardens are manicured to attract walkers. I was welcomed into their lounging area with a cold drink and a wet napkin. I sat cautiously on the vintage-looking sofa, afraid I might crack something from a different era. I need not have worried, as the palace has been renovated and outfitted with modern amenities all over. My room had a regal door, with its wooden frame having metal protrusions. It had a latch at the bottom with a lock the size of a giant's palm. The room interiors brought me back to the twenty first century with its electric kettle, flat-screen TV and air conditioning. There were two windows in my room - one had a gorgeous view of the swimming pool, and the other, a garden at the back. The bathroom was almost half the size of the room! I bet the prince never had a glass separation for his shower area! The Chandra Mahal Haveli is part of Amritara's Private Hideaways. I have previously stayed at another Amritara property, and I could see that they try to maintain their standards and uniformity in services across their estates. The toiletries, the light grey and beige coloured staff-uniform, and the courteousness in the hosts, all were the same. In the Bird Park One goes to Bharatpur mainly to visit the Keoladeo National Park - the world's most popular bird breeding park. I am quite a novice when it comes to birding, so I was relieved that the park had naturalists on hire. Inside the 29 square kilometer area of the forest, visitors can walk, cycle or hop on a cycle-rickshaw. Remember to pack your DSLR with powerful zoom lenses. The weather was nice that morning as it had drizzled for a bit, making the climate cool and comfortable for my 3-hour long trip inside the park. I spotted many laughing doves, treepies, robins, koels, bulbuls, swans, egrets, spotted owls and parakeets in their habitat. Peacocks were most ubiquitous. Bharatpur seems to have this elegant bird in excess supply. The haveli itself would be filled with the sounds of peacocks' calls most of the time. It is mating season, I am told, in the rains. This is when most birds stir up the skies with their unique calls, in search for partners to take their legacy forward. Luxury in the Little Things After a tiring bird watching trip, I decided to chill at the pool. A kind restaurant staff brought me batter-fried veggies to enjoy with the weather. Most of my trips are centred around food, if not culture. In Bharatpur, I took the opportunity to ask for some adraki-aloo (ginger-flavoured potatoes) and the classic dal-baati-churma - a dish of lentils mixed with crushed balls of wheat, semolina and sweet dabbed with spoonfuls of ghee. A special mention to their dal baati churma. I have been to Rajasthan twice before and had Rajasthani cuisine several times, but Chandra Mahal's taste is the best I have had. I enjoyed it so much that I ordered this delicacy for three consecutive meals! The Highs

• The rooms are comfortable even if they are not ultra luxurious.
• The swimming pool is well maintained, as are the changing rooms.
• Many heritage elements are intact in this modern twist to the palace, such as the high ceilings and the wooden doors.
• The rooms are free of pests or insects as there's netting outside the windows.
• Their room service is prompt.

Things to Keep in Mind

• It is expensive to travel anywhere from the palace as it is tucked away in a relatively remote village.
• The Haveli is a good place for you to unwind and relax. If you are looking for a lot of activities to keep you busy, then this may not be for you.
• The resort does not have liquor permit, but can get you alcohol form nearby shops. The variety is rather limited, though.
• The property does not arrange for any tickets to the national parks. They only assist with the transportation.
• There are monkeys inside the property. I had to call for an escort to leave my room one day when a monkey sat on his guard right outside my room.

Best Time to Visit Winter is the best season to make a trip to Bharatpur. I went in the cusp of summer and monsoon, and I faced either the searing heat or bone-drenching rains. October to February is also when the bird park sees a lot of migratory birds and becomes a heaven for bird watchers. Top Tips for Travelers

• Carry your swimsuit to enjoy a dip in what once might have been a royal pond.
• Bring your own entertainment with you for your stay (unless you are a TV person).
• Try their dal baati churma - absolutely delicious!
• If you have a few days to spare, visit the Sariska Tiger Reserve, Abhaneri and Bhangarh.